Thursday 28 June 2018

Evening walk in our F-11 neighbourhood

I love our evening walks in our neighbourhood in Islamabad. Even though its the height of summer, we have adjusted to the heat. 

That there are small parks and green belts, wide sidewalks, paths for walking within those green belts is what I really enjoy. 

The greenery is lush. 

Kavita picked up several pine cones and, a fallen branch for a walking stick. 

I wonder which trees should be planted more to create more shade and reduce the heat. 

The blue outline of the Margalla Hills too creates a beautiful effect. 

I often wonder who lives in all these beautiful houses. Most of them have manicured and immaculate front gardens. Some of the gardens are full of overgrown weeds. 

We see house servants walking dogs or sometimes the owners themselves. 

In the park, one can see families spending the evening together, walking, minding their children on the swings, and chatting. One sees women together. Sometimes, one also sees young boys who clearly do not live in the kothis of the neighbourhood and, are playing in the swings and slides even though they are not of that age. 

Parents and older kids though of the privileged classes are - seemingly - busy in overusing the park. I get astounded when parents themselves are climbing up the slides or, older gets don't seem to care if they would damage anything. The parks and paths are sometimes strewn with trash. 

Kavita loves the chance to play in the swings or the monkey bars or the slides. She's sometimes a little scared but with some gentle and firm scolding, she gets encouraged to have fun. 

I have told her to say Aasalamoalaikum to anyone she meets so she is often greetings security guards, the mochi close to our house and other kids. 

On almost all my evening walks, now, I have seen Chinese families walking and enjoying the parks. 

I even met the daughter of a Kenyan diplomat during one of my walks. 
































Monday 25 June 2018

A wonderful visit to Malaysia

I've always wanted to visit Malaysia for its status as an Asian Tiger; for the political legendary status of Dr Mahathir who has helped to build a strong Malaysian economy and state; and, to see a developed East Asian Muslim country. 

My best friend has been living in Kuala Lumpur for the past 4 years. I finally had the opportunity to visit her and, to see beautiful Malaysia. 


First impressions

The journey itself to Malaysia was exciting. I have never traveled to East Asia and, even transiting through Bangkok Airport was a novelty for me. 

I was impressed with the beautiful airport in Kuala Lumpur. We exited into the duty free which had massive windows looking into trees. We took a train to another terminal from where we passed through immigration and baggage halls.

My best friend and her four year old (Aysha and Aleeza) picked up Kavita and I. What a nice feeling to be picked up. What a nice feeling to see a smiling face in the arrivals!

Kuala Lumpur is so green. It's a tropical city with green belts of rain forest in the middle of highways. The climate is tropical, similar to Liberia. I was constantly struck by how similar the weather and terrain were, especially while we traveled through the country.

Multi-cultural feast

I was completely taken aback by how multi-cultural KL is. While exploring the old parts of town, one would come across a Hindu Temple, a mosque, and a Buddhist Temple within the same vicinity if not the same street.

Coming from Pakistan, where religion and the imposition of Islam is a stifling reality, it can render one a little over excited. 

Similarly, in terms of cuisine, one can relish food from at least 3 different cultures. Aysha introduced me to lasi lemak on my first day itself in a mall. I absolutely loved it. We ate at a "pure veg" South Indian restaurant on the day we went to explore the sights in and around Merdeka Square. The restaurant was opposite a sari shop called the Chennai Potty's. We also often ate at an open air restaurant (Aysha says the name is 'Nagas') which had delicious cheap fare. One could serve one self up from a buffet and order from the menu too. That's where I first had the crazy delicious roti canai and teh tarik. Being a tea lover, I quite obsessed with teh tarik and realised later that what makes it so tasty, among other things, is that they add condensed milk to it. Aysha's daughter was obsessed with cheese parathas and noodles so we got to try those as well. Kavita loved the roti canai, too. A few times, Aysha picked up Pakistani dishes from Pakistani restaurants for iftar as we were visiting during Ramzan. We also ate in China Town in the Petaling Night Market in a square where people were in the tables in the middle surrounded by different restaurants. The food was fantastic and I forget all Aysha ordered and introduced us to. In Penang we ate at one of the best places to have nasi kandar at Line Clear Nasi Kandar after a full day of sight seeing. That was quite an amazing experience. Another dish I went crazy over was curry laksa. We had it on Jonkers Street in Malacca. I was stunned by how fragrant and delicious it was. 






I visited so many temples, Hindu and Chinese, during this trip. There are also many stunning mosques in the country but how much can one see in one trip? Also, I was more eager to see temples as I have never really visited a temple in Asia. 

I did spend one afternoon in awe at the Islamic Arts Museum and, it is truly stunning. 





Because of Ramadan , malls were decorated to signal the fasting month. But ordinary life did not seem to be affected by Ramadan and, certainly, food/drink was clearly available even during fasting hours (unlike Pakistan). We saw a Ramadan Bazaar in George Town where Aysha stopped to pick up something to break her fast (and for the 2 elder men driving our human rickshaws). 

I enjoyed every sensation, sight, food and feeling of being in Malaysia. 

I didn't try the famed durian though - its reputation kept me away. Nevertheless I did find this amazing quote about durian: 
“The stories surrounding eating durians remind us that literature should incorporate low culture bringing it closer to lived reality. These legends come not from the pens of the elite but are assembled from the words of the masses both written and spoken passed from one person to another—the only way to create a text this deep and compelling.” ― Wong Yoon Wah Durians Are Not the Only Fruit
The British made a George Town everywhere they went? 

I have visited George Town in Accra and now have the pleasure of spending 2 nights in George Town, Penang. These British conquerors (disguised as traders) subjugated peoples and lands and resources in the name of their kings and queens: George , James, Victoria, etc. 

Shiny, Glamorous and Packaged 

Malaysia belongs to the group of countries that has achieved economic miracles within a lifetime thanks to the visions of a singular personality (Lee Kuan Yew and Singapore, Sheikh Zayed? and Dubai). In my mind, I have associated Malaysia's modern success story to Dr Mahathir. 

For sure, Malaysia as seen by a visitor is a glittering success: a gleaming beautiful capital city with glitzy malls, abundant consumerism, such a well-developed tourism industry, cultural harmony, law and order, world-class museums, and stunning airports. 

From my limited understanding, Malaysia has enjoyed political stability and, during my visit history was being made after the ruling party was ousted by a coalition and, Mahathir became Prime Minister again (the oldest one) , by joining with his own formerly ousted/imprisoned Anwar Ibrahim. The outgoing Prime Minister was the centre of shocking corruption scandal and, gazillion luxury items and cash was found in his home. 

However, the economic development has  obviously come at a cost. We have this idea forced upon us that democracy is vital to economic development and prosperity but of course this isn't true. The West didn't develop thanks to democratic and liberal ideals. Moreover, the development that former colonies and some non-Western states have achieved has taken place over a much faster time space.    

Economic miracles rarely are peoples' development, equal, sustainable and, democratic. 

So, we have understand that Dr Mahathir and his party ruled dictatorially and, critics were 'dealt' with. Also, I understood that the cultural harmony isn't as perfect as it may seem. The Malay ethnic group is favoured institutionally , over Indian and Chinese ethnicities. As such society is stratified. Islam is the religion of the country although it is also secular. Moreover, Malay Muslim identity is defined very specifically by the state. Homosexuality is a crime. 

Also, as shiny and glitzy as the country might seem, one can definitely get there is inequality and very poor sections of society. 

Meeting Anwar Ibrahim and Sashi Taroor

What can I say, this moment was something so wonderful and exciting. Aysha's journalist friend was up to interview newly-released Anwar Ibrahim and, she was so kind to take us along. We went to the Party HQ and, media teams were in queue to interview Anwar. We were sitting in the lobby when I saw Shashi Taroor and I kind of leapt up to go see him. Then I realised Anwar was seeing him off at the door. And, I didn't know who to greet first. I said hello to Sashi and, he asked me "Aap ka shub naam." I will never forget that. Aysha's friend's turn came up and , we all watched as she interviewed him. He was quite tired and, sometimes nodding right where he was in between takes. He was also perspiring and was fasting. He joked with us afterwards and, even hummed some Bollywood tunes, I forget which. It was such a memorable day. 

Beauty

Malaysia is a tropical country and, has rich wildlife, beaches, national parks, and tropical lushness. After spending so many years in Liberia, which has the world's wettest capital, I could definitely recognise and be familiar with the lushness, the rain, humidity and rainfall. 


Liberia is equally stunning and beautiful however, it is not developed. It doesn't have any modern infrastructure, transportation, well-maintained national parks or beaches, no tourism industry to speak of, and, definitely no reputable museum that celebrates its heritage where one could get lost for a day. In fact, it is even difficult to find a beautiful garden in Monrovia, the capital, to enjoy the tropical lushness. 

Seeing Malaysia, I imagined what Liberia could be like if it were developed and taken care of, its natural beauty truly enjoyed and presented and, a country where its rainfall and dense forestation is overcome to build roads to connect the country.  

Visa blues

Teach yourself patience. In these past few unexpected days of chasing a visa extension for Kavita, I realised the recurring motif is one of patience. Islamabad is the typical administrative capital with its typical bureaucracy and, big tall buildings and crowded offices where you can get lost and overwhelmed. During this and previous visits, one meets and notices so many other ordinary folks chasing documents, visas, permits, and extensions. Almost everyone is patient and, has traveled far. I remember the desk officer asked the person, where did you travel from and, so many times I heard of the name of a small town I did not know. I remember a woman quietly sitting on a bench under one of the trees near the entrance of the Ministry of Interior. She was wearing a white chador, and she was sitting on the bench when I entered the gates and after I left. I don't know how long she would sit there. Patience is really what one needs to deal with the bureaucracy that is modern life.  

It looks like I've spent half my life running behind visas. Either for myself or for Kavita. I mean, really, f*** borders. 

I know I'm quite ineffective and inefficient at not having realised that the 6-month visa issued by the Embassy of Pakistan in Morocco (the delightful Embassy under whose jurisdiction Liberia is) was only single entry. We have been getting the Pakistan visa for Kavita from Morocco via courier and, they have been issuing multiple entry 1 year visas. Somehow, this time around, the visa they issued was only single entry and, only for half the year, even though they charged full fees. 

When I had asked at the time, they said the visa fees are the same for 6 months and 1 year. And of course, the Embassy was quite slow in responding to e-mails and/or answering phones. 

And, all this time, I was so careless that I did not realise I will need to exit and re-enter Pakistan with Kavita. 

11 June 

So when I landed back in Islamabad in the second week of June from an excellent holiday in Malaysia at around 1030 PM, the airport officials alerted me to the fact that Kavita merely had a single-entry visa. I was extremely embarrassed (and secretly angry with the Pakistan Embassy in Morocco). The airport officials were extremely kind and issued us with a 72-hour landing permit. They even said if it weren't the fact this was a child, they might even deport the person. They told me to apply for the Pakistan Origin card

We were finally able to leave the Airport at around midnight.  

Kavita and I arrived home with a Metro Cab and, came home to a boiling hot oven of a house. We had left just after mid May for a 3-week holiday and, Islamabad weather was still very pleasant. I couldn't believe how hot it was. I spent the next unpacking, recovering from a bit of jet lag and adjusting myself back to the conditions. 

13 June

Without thinking, I proceeded straight to the Directorate General of Immigration & Passports in G-8/1. I met with a desk officer (he was not from the visa section actually but the passport section, I guess). I hadn't been here at this office in a while, nervous at what would happen and stressed out. I kept calculating when the 72 hour landing permit would expire and, how to explain that I had only got it at around midnight and, they shouldn't do something bad to us because, technically, you see, the 72-hour landing permit would only start Tuesday morning. 

Well anyway, while I waited for the officer to speak to me, I noticed a very stressed person sitting next to me. He had traveled all the way from Hyderabad. He had applied for a passport to travel for Haj but was denied because he had been erroneously linked to a deceased person linked to terrorism and, was on an exit control list. he was very frustrated and angry and, kept relating his story. Apparently, just as he had been issued the passport at the Passport Office and, had even left the building, the authorities asked him to return it. This person said, if he misses his Haj, he would ' see to everyone. ' The desk officer when finally attending to him got self righteous and, said, he would sincerely work on his case but can't answer for the entire Pakistani state. 

All this time, he was assisted by someone who seemed to know all the rules and procedures and kept advising him. 

The desk officer finally attended to me, read my landing permit and, in a scolding tone, told me to proceed to the Ministry of Interior, R - Block the next day at 9 AM.  

I was quite stressed as I left the Passport Office that day. I don't know why! I asked my father if he had any contacts at the Ministry. I asked a cousin. I thought Kavita and I would be in big trouble. 

14 June

The last day before the 4-day Eid weekend, I woke up really early to take Kavita to the Ministry of Interior. We woke up at 8 AM and, reached the Ministry at around 9:30 AM. I have no idea why I had stressed so much. Maybe it was because last time, they made a little fuss over the father's Indian nationality. I don't know why it felt like I was in a lot of trouble. 

I was shown into the same visa hall (which I have visited so many times before) and, saw the same familiar face of Mr. Sajjad who receives applications, returns letters/documents, etc. The visa hall was relatively empty at this time. He looked at the landing permit and, we exchanged a few pleasantries. He told me to copy various documents (passport, landing permit, my ID, birth certificate, etc) and, come back to him. 

We walked to a tiny nearby market which had a photocopy shop. One of the guards at the Ministry gates showed me a path which actually led to a ditch and, one had to cross a makeshift bridge (made up of a couple of wood logs) and, I was so angry (and remembered my fall from grace during a HASH walk). Kavita and I walked back in the scorching heat and, then walked on the road to get to the market. I had my documents photocopied. The fellow at the shop was knowledgeable and even advised me how to fill out the form (put 2 months extension at the top, he advised). The shop made me colour copies and it cost me a 250 rupees or something.

We walked back to Mr. Sajjad who told me to come back in a week for the approval letter. I told him I was flying back on the 3rd of July. He said it would be OK.

While I was waiting to see him, I overhead someone's case and it would cost $ 400 because his permit (residence? or visa?) had expired. There's another desk that deals entirely with Afghans. I wonder what experiences and stresses they have to suffer.

So, all in all, I was relieved that everything was OK. 

22 June 

The first Careem that morning disappeared and, I canceled it knowingly incurring a 170 or 200 cancellation fee. When the second Careem came round, I told the Captain what happened. He told me to call the help line and, my cancellation charges were revoked. The second Careem Captain was quite polite and, helpful.

I went back to the Ministry on a Friday. Kavita waited in the Careem as she was sleepy and tired. If any official needed to see her, I would easily be able to retrieve her from the car. 

I waited at Mr. Sajjad's desk while he attended to other persons before me. There was a white gentleman who spoke very good Urdu who politely listened to Mr. Sajjad. Apparently, he would have to come back after the 4th. He was wearing a green shalwar kameez. After he left. Mr. Sajjad invited me to his desk. I asked him who he was and, was told he was a missionary. I was told that the officer in charge was new and, had left for the US on a visit and, had not signed any letters. I was stressed! I said but I was soon going to travel. He said, well, 'go to see the other officer and, let him know you filed your application a week ago and, that you need to travel.'

I telephoned the Careem driver and, asked him if Kavita was OK. She had awoken from her nap and, spoke to me. She said she wanted to stay in the car. 

I walked to the R-Block and went up to Room 604 or 605. I was back in this familiar dust-gathering, file-filled corridor and room. I patiently waited to see the officer in charge. Until then, I watched a few clerks including a lady with a dupatta-covered head, quietly chatting and sharing tea and chaat. I started craving both. There were a few other persons in that tiny room, brimming with files. I asked one of the clerks to help me. They kindly looked at me. When the officer came back into the room (he was on the other side of the wall), I was shown to him. The clerk who took me there (slightly balding, kind face, slim and, energetic) made my case and, I also made my case. The officer though was busy with an East European couple. The woman was passionately making her case, trying to explain she needed an NOC. I gleaned that the couple were traveling by road for a year and, were passing through Pakistan. They needed to extend their visa because she had to have a critical surgery in Peshawar and then wanted to cross into Afghanistan. She said the staff at the counter downstairs had advised her to get an NOC. The officer asked his clerk who said yes and, then the conversation kept going round and round. I believe the lady was Polish and, she kept gesturing with her hands and, saying she needed an NOC. The desk officer asked to see a doctor's consultation paper or scheduled surgery. 



I managed to intercede, very very politely and meekly, to consider my case. The officer sahib was actually trying to run off to see his senior but I told him my daughter was waiting alone in a taxi. He kindly signed my approval letter. I quietly advised the lady to be patient and polite and, bureaucracy had the same face everywhere. I told her from experience I've learned not to provoke, insult or lecture a state official. I also tried to translate on her behalf to the officer. As I was leaving, I saw that the Polish couple were being advised to get an Exit Permit which covered a 2-week period. But then the argument started over again because the lady said what if Afghanistan border officials didn't let them enter and, they had to travel to Iran? The Pakistani officials said but they could only give an Exit Permit for one border point. 

I took my approval letter, bowed and profusely thanked everyone. I left the Ministry, called the Careem and, then proceeded to the Directorate General of Immigration & Passports office in G-8/1. I found myself at the same person's desk as it was already 1 PM. He appears to be a very straight forward person. He sternly would attend to anyone at his desk but then lit up with folks he knew walked in. Anyway, he told me, again, I was at the wrong desk.



I met another lady through the closed visa office who listened to me and said it was too late to process the visa extension. She told me it would be processed before my flight and to come back on Monday before 12.

After this, I left the building to go and meet the Careem who it looked like was the same guy who had disappeared in the morning. I angrily called the Helpline who ordered me a new car. 

25 June 

This morning, I was back with Kavita at Directorate General of Immigration & Passports office in G-8/1 at around 1130 AM. I had had to make copies of relevant documents which I did at the nearby market. It cost me 25 rupees as these were black and white. I met the same lady in a crowded office, overflowing with files and papers, a humming photocopy machine, cups of tea, 2 or 3 officers behind computers behind glass counters, and the young slim man in a brown shalwar kameez running to and fro, organising the patient visa-seekers-extenders in line, passing documents, copying documents. I remember him from several visits. He is constantly in motion, flying from one desk to another, handling documents, meeting with people, facilitating everything. I wish I had asked his name. He happily exclaimed "only 20 more minutes to go."



The same lady (with a covered head and a niqab) who was receiving applications, swiftly stapling documents and making annotations on them, politely met me. I told her I needed the passport back soon. She said to meet her boss in the next room. I went inside. The officer at the desk was signing documents and, had 2 visitors. He asked me to have a seat. Kavita and I sat and waited. She asked me to play " I spy with my little eye." So, we played and, named the purple tie on one of the visitors, the brown desk, the clock, the thick green table cloth on the officer's desk, and the wooden brown frame around Jinnah's portrait. The purple tie man was asking whether an airport official can issue a visa to a foreign diplomat to which the officer said of course not. The purple tie man said he would go meet another big man and laughed. Another visitor was a women who was scrolling through her smart phone and, it looked like was founding out about a European visa and sharing the information with the officer.

Anyway, when it was my turn to make my case, it was quite easy and, the officer obliged and thankfully, said, I could the passport back 3 days later. I was very happy and asked Kavita to also that the folks there. She said 'Shukriya.'

I came back to the house at around 1 PM. 

Evening walk and golden amaltas 🌼

Kavita and I enjoyed our evening walk today. There are so many little play grounds and green belts in  our neighbourhood. 

At the playground, a boy and a girl (I imagine they are friends or brother and sister) were on the see saw. The girl was at one end and the boy kept saying, 'moti'. But he was a bit weak and couldn't get on his end. They were probably 12 or 13 year olds. I told him, it's not fair to call his sister 'moti' while he himself is so 'kamzor'. The girl started laughing. 

On the way back, we enjoyed the breathtakingly beautiful blossoms of the amaltas by night. What a magical moment. 

Read about amaltas here