Wednesday 16 May 2018

Lahore, what a city, what a feeling

There are three Lahore's: Mughal, British and Pakistani. 


I was in Lahore for 4 days for sight seeing and, meeting friends and family. I did sight seeing in the day and met up with family in the evening. 

It was a real shame I was so close to New Delhi (the city they say is so much like Lahore) but might as well have been a million miles because - Partition.

A visit to the Wagah Border is part of the tourist offerings by car hires, tours organised by hotels and guides. I had no interest in watching the famous military tango. I explained this self righteously to someone but I was told it's a very friendly and amiable spectacle. Still, I did not want to go because I still feel stung that I don't have a visa to India yet. I would probably only feel bad! Rejected. Self righteously furious at the so-called border. I would start lecturing anyone I could find. 

The last time I was in Lahore was the late 90s. My mother, little sister Saira and I had traveled to Pakistan for a family visit. We were in Lahore for 3 days and were taken around by my cousin and Khala to the Badshahi Masjid, androon shehar, etc. 

Since then, I have not really visited Lahore except being dragged for a wedding for a day. I can't remember much from that visit. 

So, it was imperative that I finally go on a sight seeing tour to Lahore. 

It was the first time I took this Bus and, was really impressed by the bus terminal, the ticketing system, and, how comfortable the bus ride was. In fact, they even had a uniformed lady who served us a snack and, distributed ear phones to watch the movie. I've always said Islamabad Airport is worse than a bus stop and, it literally is.

I got a Daewoo cab to take me to the hotel that night. I was so excited to be driving by the canal and, knowing I was in Lahore. 

Sight seeing in Lahore but first about hotels and enthusiastic hotel staff 

I managed to visit quite a few places in Lahore over 3 days: Lahore Fort, Badshahi Masjid, Lahore Museum, Lawrence Gardens, Pak Tea House, Shalimar Gardens, Datta Ganj Bakhsh, Mall Road, some colonial buildings from outside and Hiran Minar. It's not everything but at least I had a sense of Lahore.


The first night Kavita and I stayed at the magnificent Faletti's Hotel. We not only loved the room but the beautiful corridors and the garden. It is a stylish hotel and, I was very excited to know it was one of the oldest hotels in Pakistan and, been renovated. Apparently it was fully booked all the time. In fact, they kicked us out the next day saying they were over booked. So, they sent us to the near by Luxus Grande in the afternoon.

Breakfast at Faletti's was memorable. It was a lavish spread with continental food at one end and spicy desi food at the other end. I believe it was the first time I ate nihari. I got very excited and only wanted to eat desi food but it was too spicy so I just ordered a plain omelette. The restaurant host there was extremely gracious and, kept asking us what we wanted. I said to him I would serve myself but he insisted he would bring everything over. I told him I wanted toasted bread for Kavita but then, he forgot it and when I went to get it, he said, why have you got up? The next table complained about the stale or stiff parathas so our polite host went to the kitchen and rattled one of the chefs. The argument could be heard in the whole restaurant. I was quite amused with the whole experience.

Lahore Fort and Badshahi Masjid 

Luxus Grande organised a driver for the day for me at a reasonable rate and, I spent almost the whole day at the Lahore Fort and Badshahi Masjid. It was a scorching hot day. The driver walked the whole time with us and helped me with Kavita who got more and more tired, hot and irritable. Usually, she is one of the most amiable travel and walking companions but this day she seemed to have got a bit of a heat stroke.  Her whining and "I'm so hot" became interspersed with the guide's lecture. He explained how the Empress wanted to be close to the stars who Jahangir had the Sheesh Mahal built for her. Here, the Emperor would watched elephants fight each other. This is where the Royal Family would go to escape the heat. This is where the Emperor would hold court. I was transfixed and transported. Scenes from old films and old songs (Mughal-e-Azam, Kohinoor) and TV serials (The Indian Tipu Sultan and the Pakistani play on Tansen) floated in my mind.



The Lahore Fort is - more or less - in a good shape. First of all, its size and scale is immense.  The guide told me the Fort covers an area of 42 acres. The guide who was with me said he and his brother have a tour company. He didn't get official training from the authorities, he said, but from his reading, he learned enough to create a tour at the Fort. He said his brother knew Chinese and had a successful business.

I scolded poor Kavita a lot only to have her quite sick in the night and next morning. I was enjoying the tour so much I myself didn't realise how hot it was. She kept complaining of the heat.

The guide pointed out renovations of the frescos on the outer wall of the Lahore Fort, as we entered the massive gate. He said the renovations were being funded by the Norwegian Government and UNESCO over a 5-year project. I was a little incensed to hear this. If it is correct, it is infuriating that we can't dish out the funds to preserve and maintain historical and cultural sites.

Is Lahore Fort still standing because it's within Lahore, a continuously inhabited city? I saw Derawar Fort 2 years ago and, it's crumbling. I saw Rohtas Fort 4 years ago and it, too is crumbling.

There were hundred year old 'peepal' trees. A small shrine where women came to pray.  You could also don some Mughal-looking clothes and pose for a picture. In the grounds just outside the Fort, there were some very ugly metal sculptures and installations.


There was a small museum inside the Fort with miniatures, weapons, coins and maps. But there wasn't any light and it was boiling hot. I had to rush through it.

The Samadhi of Ranjit Singh was closed for renovations.

The Badshahi Masjid is breathtakingly big and, beautiful. By this time, it was evening, and it was somewhat cooler. Kavita was thoroughly exhausted by now and I had to ask the Guide to stop because it was either her or hearing about the 1974 Islamic Summit hosted by Bhutto in Lahore.



I visited a cousin that evening and, it was great catching up after so many years. While trying to find his house and, I had a glimpse of the Fortress shopping area. Gosh, very fancy. We later went for a nice meal out at a Lebanese restaurant (I really wanted to eat desi food but my hosts prevailed) which was in a cluster of restaurants and cafés).

Shalimar Gardens

Kavita got sick in the night and the next morning. I took her to a nearby hospital as advised by the hotel. The doctor I met in the paediatrician ward happened to be from Somalia who had studied in Pakistan. He knew Urdu. He took Kavita's temperature and, said she didn't have a fever. I told him to take her temperature again and, indeed she had fever. These few times I've consulted with doctors, they hardly touch the child and ask enough questions. It's a little infuriating. After I mentioned that I lived in Liberia, he got quite chatty and, started telling me about George Weah's football career. He prescribed some medicines and, we went back to the hotel with the medicines. Kavita slept through the afternoon.


I ordered another Careem and, we went to the Shalimar Gardens. The driver agreed to wait for me outside.

At 5:30 PM, the Shalimar Gardens were emanating the day's heat. I was astounded with how hot it was still but determined to enjoy the famed gardens. I found a Guide rather indirectly who just started lecturing me. He even offered to take photographs of Kavita and I. Poor Kavita was still a little tire and hot so we had to also rush through this tour and, I didn't walk around the third and last terrace.

I learned the Gardens are divided into three terraces. The first one is Bagh e Bakhsh and the second and third are Bagh e Faiz. The Emperor used to come to the Gardens in the hot months. Here, he would sit and, here dancers and musicians performed. Was it easy to imagine such scenes? Yes, of course. I could almost hear the raag and ghunghroo.

The guide showed us the echo/acoustics of one of the pavilions. When we clapped, the whole room reverberated. It chimed like a sitar. It was mesmerising.

The pools were empty at the time but for the ones on the first terrace where small boys were bathing and splashing. What can else could they do in the sweltering heat?

Some of the most famous gardens there are, the Shalimar Gardens are an example of the most splendid Mughal architecture and a vision for man/woman's's devotion to nature, I think they could be better maintained. Built in the 17th century, they have withstood time and, are still so exquisite: the terraces, the fountains, the vision, the marble lattice work, the pavilions, the scale. I could still imagine the full beauty of the place but it was evident, the grounds, the fountains need renovation and daily maintenance. The entrance itself to the Gardens was embarrassingly shabby.



That evening, after I visited a cousin after almost 30 years in Model Town, I asked the driver to take us to one of the Old City's Gates. We were taken to Anarkali Gate, I believe. We bought some flowers and then made our way back. Unfortunately, we got stuck in the traffic. After midnight, we seemed to be stuck in trucks key addey or near shops where goods were being offloaded. I couldn't believe the driver didn't know better to avoid such an area. He kept saying this never happens (of course). I saw mazdoor offloading goods in that sweltering heat (it was still boiling hot even at night), God knows how much kilograms they were carrying on their backs and how much a worker gets paid for his labour.

Lahore Museum, Pak Tea House, Colonial Grandeur, Mall Road, Datta Darbar, and Lawrence Gardens 

The next day, the hotel organised another car for me with the same company. This time the owner of the cab company himself drove me around. Javed Sahab's voice was similar to actor Saeed Jaffrey's and, it was pleasant to converse with him. He was extremely cheerful and, enthusiastic. One of the first things he told me was that there are three Lahore's: one that the Mughals made, one that the British built and the one that "we" made after Pakistan was created.



The Lahore Museum, built during the British Raj, is well maintained and has with several galleries showcasing the Mughal, Sikh, Ghandaran, Hindu and other histories of present-day Pakistan.

I was very very excited to get a glimpse of the famous Fasting Buddha.

Upstairs, there are galleries about the Freedom Movement but of course, since we are in Pakistan, the exhibition only depicted the Movement to Create Pakistan. History in Pakistan is extremely myopic, to say the least.

There was also a beautiful gallery in commemoration of Women's Day with a very impressive array of Pakistani women.

We passed by many colonial structures, including Government College, where my own father studied.

I stopped at one part of Mall Road to see some old buildings. One of the buildings had inscribed Sri Ganga Ram, a figure I read about only in newspapers, and how his works of philanthropy were abundant. Similarly, thanks to the Internet, we read many articles about Partition and how Lahore was emptied of its Hindu residents and, how children of those refugees recount their parents' memories of Lahore.



How did I decide where to go? Honestly, I hastily researched the Internet and made a list of 20-30 "must-see" places of Lahore. There's not much ground you can cover in 3 days, especially if one is not used to getting up early and with out scorchingly hot May is.



I told Javed Sahab I want to see Datta Darbar. Javed Sahab was very pleased: "Apne hazri denee hai? Aap ki manat zaroor puree ho gi." I couldn't explain I was merely a tourist and politely nodded. I was quite excited to see Datta Darbar. According to Wikipedia, it's the largest sufi shrine in South Asia! Datta Darbar is in old Lahore and, Javed Sahab took us through one of the most tight lanes and, said, to get off here and then walk. He would be around after I was done. Kavita and walked to the entrance of the shrine. Everyone kept asking if I wanted a daig and, I would politely refuse. Why would I want a daig? Later, of course, I learned it's a custom to give a daig to the Darbar. If I had only known! (This is why, I should have read a little bit more.)

At the women's entrance, police officers were searching bags. Unfortunately, my camera was not allowed. The male police officer there told me he'd take care of my camera. I was a little hesitant until he made me feel embarrassed at me doubting him. But somehow, I was allowed to take my phone (with which I could take pictures).


The courtyard of the shrine is very big but it was closed to women. Kavita and I walked around the women's section. Kavita washed her feet where women were doing their wudhoo. Women were fervently praying, in devotion.

The first time I saw sufi shrines was in Multan with my best friend in 2016. Not only were they beautiful but let me get a glimpse of the peoples' religion in South Asia. Shrines can encompass mausoleums  of holy figures or places where people have been journeying for hundreds if not thousands of years to pay respects and pray. They form part of the culture and religious beliefs. I enjoyed visiting this shrine.

Javed Sahab was going to take me to Wazir Khan Mosque and Hiran Minar the next day. He said let's add Pak Tea House to tomorrow, too. I said, "kal kisne dekha hai?" He laughed and said, "Kya baat hai." I asked him to join me for tea. So, we had tea while Kavita, tired from the sightseeing, dozed a little bit in my lap. Next to us, a table of young girls was enjoying a get together. In fact, more and more girls arrived and, they soon shifted downstairs. At another table, some other boys were trying to assemble or check out a small drone they had unpacked from a box. The famed Pak Tea House was full of pictures of writers, academics, and poets who had frequented this most famous of establishments. Javed Sahab and I named most of them.


Most funnily enough, right next to Pak Tea House was Chicken Cottage. What did you say, Chicken Cottage? This was a fried chicken place next to my halls in South Woodford, where I lived from 1998 - 2001. My friends and I were addicted to it.

The last bit of sight seeing I did that day was in Jinnah Bagh or Lawrence Gardens. The evening had cooled and, it was bearable. Kavita and I walked around a little bit and, enjoyed the beautiful gardens. A few youngsters were playing their guitars. Some events were taking place in the Library. There were many, many folks picnicking or walking in the gardens. They are lush and beautiful.


Javed Sahab dropped us off to my cousin's in Defense. I had a great evening with my cousin's and, we even went for a coffee at the Packages Mall as I have heard so much about the fancy malls of Lahore. It was indeed glamorous. I bought some books at the Liberty Bookstore.

Hiran Minar

The next day, I invited my cousin to join us for a day at Hiran Minar which of course Javed Sahab drove us to. We left too late to visit the Wazir Khan Mosque so it was just going to be Hiran Minar, meeting my Khala who lives in Lahore, and then catch a Daewoo to Islamabad that night.


Hiran Minar was about an hour away and, it's a lovely drive: golden fields. The last bit of the way to the Hiran Minar itself is not so good but apparently, they are improving the road.

As always, I think such a breathtakingly beautiful historical site could be better maintained, and, developed. If a small museum, trained guides and, some good facilities were made around this place (and all other historical and cultural sites), then, tourism will really flourish. And most importantly, our public should be educated on the history and culture and, to respect it.

I explained to Kavita, that apparently, the Emperor had this place built in memory of his favourite deer (hiran) which he accidentally killed during a hunting trip. If you think about it from a child's perspective, it doesn't make sense, no? How can you love animals and also love to hunt them?

Hiran Minar is at least 400 or 500  years old and, is close to a town called Sheikupura. There were so many smoking towers (brick-making kiln). (Emperor Jahangir built Hiran Minar and wasn't he called Sheiku by his father?) It is a magnificent site. We took a boat ride. Sat under a massive peepal tree. Unfortunately we couldn't go to the mausoleum itself - it was closed for renovations.

We drove back to Lahore and, I had enough time to quickly buy some token gifts from a nearby baker, visit with my Khala, Uncle and cousins and, then catch a Daewoo back to Islamabad.

End Note

I really enjoyed visiting Lahore and see some of its historical and cultural sites. My father has always spoken fondly of Lahore where he studied, worked, taught and even trained at the Foreign Service Academy. I wish I had the chance to see Lahore with him but he's too old for sight seeing. The Lahore in my mind has always been his Lahore. My mother, too, has many stories of Lahore: debate trips and, then shopping for her marriage in Liberty Market. I remember my oldest Mamoon talking about going to see the movies, all dressed up, in Lahore. I have images of Lahore, from family anecdotes.

It was good to see Lahore in actuality, then.

I wish I had the chance to actually eat some famous Lahori food. For that I will have to go back. I had the chance to have a sense of posh Lahore: the shops, malls, restaurant scene, etc. 

Saturday 5 May 2018

Thoughts of being home

I've been in Pakistan since the first week of April making it just over a month since I've been away from my apartment and office in Monrovia. Poor Haresh is back in Liberia running the company, dealing with day to day headaches, and surviving on sandwiches.

The past few days in Islamabad were rainy, cool and extremely pleasant. Yesterday I enjoyed the weather on one of the television channels: "mausam khushgavar hai...jurva sheheron mein rim jhim baarish ho rahi hai aur thandi havaaon ka silsila hai." Dislocated and rootless Pakistanis like me cherish the sound of weather being described in poetic Urdu.

Trips home in the last 5 years or so have have deepened feelings of rootlessness in me. Having grown up as privileged brats of a diplomat, my siblings and I grew up in various countries 'abroad.' We were not immigrants seeking better economic fortunes but moving from one capital to another, floating from one diplomatic mission to another. We were clearly Pakistanis but we were not schooled in Pakistani schools but mainly American ones. We did not grow up in a Pakistani city but one in Europe or West Africa. I don't remember, though, being connected to any city we were in. I didn't experience the reality of the people living there. Our school friends were from a host of different countries and, our teachers were American. Except for the odd school trip here or there, we lived in our own little safe bubble. So, what does that make you?

It's only as an adult that I've actually lived at a stretch in any one city and that is Monrovia, Liberia. During the first few years, I was safely cocooned in my UN life but since running a business, I have started to understand what the ups and downs are of living and working in a city as they really relate to that specific city. I can sketch improvements or challenges over a period of time that are part of Monrovia's fabric and history as I have experienced them.

I come and visit Pakistan really only as a visitor and 'tourist'. I don't enjoy coming home because I do feel disconnected to anything that is real.

In fact, when I was purchasing some items from Khaadi, the fellow at the counter smirked when I asked him whether I could use the loyalty card. It was no longer in use and, that was more than a year ago.

Liberia doesn't offer a long-term residence status to anyone who has lived for 5 years or more let alone citizenship. (Never mind George Weah's attempts to address this delicate minefield in his inaugural address) I will mostly likely hang on to my Pakistani passport for many, many years but what meaning does it really hold if I don't have a stake in my own country? And, what stake do I have in Liberia, for that matter, even though I have a business there and have spent most of my adulthood there?

Pakistan is really an Islamic Republic

The anti-Ahamdi rhetoric and agenda is at an all time high. A resolution was passed in the National Assembly, declaring that the Dr Abdus Salam Centre for Physics should be renamed "as al-Khazini Department, a little known Byzantine-origin astronomer who according to many historians lived and researched in late 14th century."

It is shocking and enraging that our National Assembly has no other fish to fry.

And, at the same time, an assassination attempt was made on the Interior Minister. The suspected gunman claims the Minister and ruling party committed blasphemy.

Stepping into Pakistan, where one sees mostly veiled women in public spaces, where religious naats are being played even in ultra fashionable boutiques, where 20 loudspeakers are blaring the azaan in a 1-KM radius, where one is hard-pressed to meet anyone else from any other faith, you can't but think that we really are an Islamic Republic and nothing else. And, what concerns our National Assembly members? Erase all memory and respect for our Noble Laureates, simply because they belonged to a different sect (Dr Abdus Salam) or spoke against extremism (Malala).

It's quite telling that opposition in India is using 'Don't become like Pakistan' card to oust the BJP! I read a headline that Prakash Raj is touring Karnataka and, advising the public they shouldn't given into the ruling party's tactics of mixing religion and politics. What a shame for Pakistan that we are a warning metaphor.

Facebook

With Facebook's Cambridge - Analytica - related - so-called - breach, it seems a few people on my "Friends" list are slightly disturbed by the revelations. I have 900+ "friends" but only about 2 people actually posted about the issue and, debated for an instant what they should do.

I myself will continue with Facebook, posting articles, sometimes getting into debates but I have less and less of a fascination with posting pictures. I've always enjoyed sharing photographs of Kavita's life (she has so many family members eager to see her pictures), my evening walks, the city, my travels, etc. I hardly post pictures now and, if I do, they are of the scenery or something really interesting. I avoid family pictures, now.

Of course, there's a certain amount of showing off for posting pictures with clever captions. You get a certain high but of late, I wonder what is the point of sharing one's pictures on Facebook? Does it hold any other value than narcissism?

I am not particularly paranoid about sharing my personal details with Facebook (I'm just 1 out of a billion plus Facebook members) but I don't care for sharing personal photos any longer. Perhaps it's a phase but for now, I don't have the energy to curate, peruse and go through my photographs to post about my fabulous life.

I'm using WhatsApp for sharing photographs with very close friends and family members.

By the way, how many WhatsApp groups are you part of?

I have started using Twitter but don't know what's the point of it, still.