I attended the poetry reading by Dr Patricia Jabbeh Wesley at the University of Liberia auditorium yesterday. The event started at 2 but Haresh and I only reached by quarter to 3. The office car was in Sinkor picking up Kavita and Musu from summer camp. We hailed a keke just outside our office. It’s LD 60.00 for any single ride in town.
As
always I enjoyed the rickshaw ride to
the LU campus. Although the driver brought us to LU, he kept driving past it
until we told him to turn around. I gave US $ 1.00 to the driver but then he didn’t
have change. Some kids rudely kept asking me to leave the keke and I explained I was waiting for change. Frustrated, I just
left. Three students climbed in after me.
Haresh
and I walked to the Auditorium. I had attended a lecture in 2011 or 2012 by a
fellow who was talking about security. He had researched perception of the
public of the UNMIL peacekeepers, of the police and of their own army. So, I
knew that this reading was probably going to be in the same auditorium. The
persons in the security booth at the entrance had no clue about the event.
Haresh
mentioned to me that the thermographic cameras were broken and probably sitting
in someone’s home. He was chatting about the cameras with the folks in the
security booth while I was being hassled by those kids, trying to get my
change.
Haresh
thought I was being so stingy by asking for change. He and I quarreled about it
on the way to the Auditorium.
Needless
to say the event had started already. As I entered the hall, I saw lots of
students outside and, wondered if there was no space inside or whether they
were interested in the reading at all.
We
entered to find a very empty hall but the poet’s voice booming across. We found
a couple of seats right at the front.
After
13 years of living in Liberia, this was the first time I had the chance to
attend a literary function in Monrovia. I had read the bio that was circulated
on Google Expats Group yesterday and, was excited to be able to listen to and
meet a distinguished Liberian poet and writer.
Patricia
was reading her poems with command and rhythm.
And, what’s best was that this was no American voice but a “real”
Liberian voice! I was really pleasantly surprised and sucked right into the
sound and fury of her vivid words, descriptions and emotions.
If
you have lived long in Liberia and try to navigate through its rather opaque
society, you’ll be lucky to meet distinguished personalities, office going
folks, and movers and shakers. Most times, many members of Liberia’s upper
middle and upper classes have spent considerable time in the US so their
accents are bona fide American, which can sometimes throw one off. (In fact,
the same is true of polite Pakistani society where the younger generation will
sport American accents, even if they haven’t been to the US).
So,
my first impression of this poet was feeling rather star struck. Here, was a
published Liberian poet, teaching at an American university, lived many years
of exile abroad and yet spoke, nay sang, with a Liberian accent, an accent
which I have come to really love over time.
Patricia
recited a poem she wrote when Ellen Johnson Sirleaf had been elected as the
first post war president in a democratic election. She used the imagery of a
rising river, digging up dead bodies, and how this was not only the time to
celebrate Ellen but also all the other Ellens. She took Liberian names and
recited them. Next was a poem she wrote for her brother’s visit to the US. She
painted with irony how different life was in American where she vacuumed,
cleaned, and sometimes wouldn’t meet anyone else for days, except for the pizza
delivery guy. She said when she first arrived in the US, she would hug people
naturally but after a while, it got too strange. She missed how someone would
come to the house to sell fish. She also talked about writing poems about her
children and, joked about how they were tired of another poem by Mommy about
them. She said she liked to write a poem
on any occasion.
Patricia
recited a poem about her son, who was also in the audience, and, it was a funny
description of a teenager hooker to wires and head sets.
Patricia
was engaging with friends in the audience and her friend, the VP/Dean of
Student Affairs. She was joking and, it was extremely entertaining.
Liberian
humour is frank. If you are a stiff, introverted and quiet type of person, you
have no chance against it. Liberian
humour is banter, friendly insults, and teasing. Joking is meant to ease
conversation, start the conversation and end it. Teasing is harmless and
intimate. Then, there are the mannerisms that form Liberian way of speaking.
There is the oh at the end of every
sentence. There is the thud-like ahan
pronounced to seek affirmation.
There’s
also the freestyle use of grammar. Sometimes, when Kavita is walking down the
street, passer bye’s, hawkers, security guards, and market women will tease
Kavita and ask her for her bag or toy or share her plantain chips. When she
says “no,” someone will joke to her and say, “Oh you want to mean me.”
I
love Liberian mazak!
So,
here was Patricia the poet bantering and joking in between reciting her poems
that were her memories of her country, of war and of her children.
She
was trying to fan herself, hold the microphone and recite her poems. After a
while, she got frustrated and just asked the person next to her to help. And
then, someone was about to take her photograph and she warned him that there
better be no sweat on her face, oh!
Then,
after a while, the curtains were closed, the lights were turned on and the ACs
came on. The Dean joked that in case she wrote a poem about LU, she should
write that the AC was on.
It’s
this joking kind of that characterises the Liberian sense of humour. It is
frank. It will make light of almost all seriousness and, try to reduce the pomp
and formality.
At
the same time, despite all the humour and frankness, Patricia is a poet who has
seen violence, murder, death, war and grief first hand. As an exile, she has
nursed a life-long longing and nostalgia for the days before the war and
missing home. She herself said, no matter what, home is home. And, therefore, the
joking and banter can hide pain and anguish. Or, maybe it lives side by side.
During
the question and answer session, one audience member asked whether Patricia
would come back to Liberia. While answering it, she spoke of another anecdote
where someone had asked her what she had contributed to Liberia and, they would
not asked it if they had known her. She said she had taught for many years at
LU and, often walked home. She was making about $ 200.00 and would gladly come
back to Liberia if she were paid a proper salary.
A
student expressed his excitement at attending the event and, that he wanted
help in getting published. He had written about 20 poems. Patricia said she
would be happy to help but she hoped help would be properly received. She said
often times she has met students who are arrogant and, don’t want to take
advice and comments. And, sometimes, they self publish! She said self
publishing is like going to your own medical school! She said self publishing
was the graveyard for writers. She also said that to be poet and writer, one
had to humble oneself. She said she used to go to Bai T Moore’s office once
every week to listen and talk to him.
She
commented on how empty the auditorium was while dozens and dozens of students
were out and about on the campus. She referred to a comment made by another
dignitary at the event who said “Liberians were not ready” and she agreed. They were not not ready to listen. She said, she had
been to university campuses in Kenya where the auditoriums were full and
youngsters were hugging her, and taking photographs with her. She said when she
bought her property in the US, her neighbours googled her and when they found
out she was a poet, they wanted to put her on the cover of a magazine.
These
comments were not a brag but pointing out the irony that of the few Liberian
intellectuals and artists that existed, they were not celebrated or even known
at home with the same enthusiasm and appreciation abroad.
I
asked her what hope she had for the preservation of Liberian’s indigenous
languages. She said there were so many languages in Liberia with many sub
dialects. Unfortunately, Liberians referred to the different languages such as
Mano, Gio, and Grebo as dialects instead of separate language groups. She said
one sentence in Grebo and, said it was almost no use in translating it into
English because the meaning is lost. Patricia said that not even enough work
was being done to preserve history and arts and, languages were being left
behind. She said she and I should exchange numbers! And, she also said,
“Welcome, this is your home, too” because when I introduced myself, I mentioned
that I had lived in Liberia since 2003.
I
nodded to Haresh, laugh together with him, with the audience and, keenly
listened to Patricia. During the question and answer session, which was rather
too short, and looking around the room, gazing at faces of older faces, I was
reminded again of Liberia’s faded glory and how much Patricia’s generation and
those even older than her, were traumatised by loss, what they had witnessed,
and nostalgia.
At one point, Patricia said that it was very important to preserve Liberia's history and, realise its uniqueness in West Africa. Yes, the Congo had come to Liberia to colonise it but their history is intertwined with Liberia and, it is no longer useful to keep blaming them. She said ironically that it was the very Congo presence that made Liberia unique in Africa.
At one point, Patricia said that it was very important to preserve Liberia's history and, realise its uniqueness in West Africa. Yes, the Congo had come to Liberia to colonise it but their history is intertwined with Liberia and, it is no longer useful to keep blaming them. She said ironically that it was the very Congo presence that made Liberia unique in Africa.
She
was asked whether she had gone back to Duport Road or Soul Clinic, places with
some of the worst massacres. She said she had deliberately not read any passage
from her upcoming memoir because it still made her cry. But she briefly
mentioned running in the streets, seeing murder, even a pregnant woman cut up,
and trying to comfort a woman who had her husband murdered and her son was
missing. She said she was regularly coming back to Liberia to go back to the
places, which were scenes of carnage or where her friends had been killed or
where she had lived.
The event
ended soon and, I asked Haresh to take a photograph of me with Patricia. A group
had formed and, cameras were clicking away. I managed to have a few photos
taken, including one with Miatta Fahnbulleh! I told her I had a painting by her
Duke Ellington, which I hurriedly corrected to Duke Appleton.
Patricia’s
poetry volumes were for sale. I asked her husband which one he recommended as a
start and he told me to take her first one: Before the Palm Could Bloom. I also bought my first Liberian
children’s book!
We
didn’t have change so I went out of the auditorium looking for our driver
Morris who by now had come to pick us up. I found him, and gave a $ 50.00 bill
to break. When I got back into the Auditorium, Haresh was chatting to Mien-Too,
Patricia’s son. Mien-Too and Charles Cooper own and run Cookship.biz, a very
popular app for ordering food in Monrovia. Haresh was regaling him with an
interesting food order experience.
We
spent $ 27.00 on the 2 books. Money well spent!
I
really enjoyed this reading on a rainy, gray Thursday afternoon. Cultural or
academic events like these are too few.
Thinking
about business, managing staff, and worrying about generators all day really
takes a toll. We have settled into daily routines of calculating figures and complaining
about the state of things day after day. Even while working in the development
sector, the connection to Liberia’s literary voices was nonexistent. We thought
and analysed Liberia only in terms of cold development numbers: number of
population, demographic of population below 15 years of age, number of wells
and latrines, number of ex-combatants, kilometers of feeder roads, number of
public school buildings, cars in the annual budget, notepads and pens needed
for a workshop, and so on.
I remember during my time at UNDP, hearing exasperated comments made by fellow
international colleagues, “The war is over! Why can’t get everyone get over
it!” Now in hindsight, I think of how callous such
remarks were in every single respect. Someone who would say something like this
probably didn’t experience the war in Liberia nor even have a deep
understanding of what happened. But then again, one doesn’t need to know. I
would imagine a common person would understand from history of how long it took
the United States to recover from its Civil War or of how almost 2 decades of
civil war in Afghanistan had utterly devastated it and hardly left any
semblance of what Afghanistan was in its heyday. So how, can a professional international officer at the UN make such an ignorant remark?
International
staff of aid agencies is often merely a bunch of technocrats. Deep historical
or socio-economic knowledge and understanding of they countries they serve is
not required. What is required is proposal writing to rich donors, draft a
budget, write a log frame, convene workshops, and write reports. Now that a
master’s degree in development is almost a must, aid workers are increasingly
knowledgeable about gender issues, how globalisation affects development
issues, war and conflict, but this knowledge is somehow not really informing
development policy or agenda. NGOs still base their short-term projects on the
underlying market-driven, liberal democracy ideology.
After
participating in this poetry event, I realised that Liberia’s intellectual
class has hardly had any public opportunity to talk about the war. I don’t
remember any series of talks or public conversations where artists, poets, writers
and journalists could come together during post war Liberia. We had of course
the Truth and Reconciliation Commission but it was criticised for lacking any
solemnity or soul searching. It was presided over by a very young fellow who
could not lend the process any weight. Those testifying or sharing horrific
experiences of rape were heckled. Moreover, the President herself at first
dismissed it and then reluctantly attended the last few sessions. And of
course, none of the names recommended for barring from holding of public office
in a very disjointed report, were barred including the President. A series of
Palavat Hut ceremonies were held all over the country but from what I remember,
they did not really achieve healing or reconciliation but were mere formalities
in the rush to create a semblance of peace. This event made me realise that
Liberians have not finished talking about the war and where it is headed. The
Europeans still remember and commemorate World War 1 and 2, noble wars against
fascism. North America and Europe still can’t get over The Holocaust. Never mind that
these were not world wars but European wars which were taken to colonial
territories; that Bengal suffered Famine because its rations were diverted to
World War 2 soldiers; and, that African and Asian soldiers who served in WWI and WW2 have been all but
forgotten. Almost every year, Hollywood or Europe makes a move about these
Wars. Don’t these newscasters on BBC wear a red flower on their lapels to commemorate the War? Aren’t Palestinians still paying for the
Holocaust? In short, why not remember all wars and, their consequences?
Where
are the voices and images recounting the Liberian war? Postwar Liberia is
compromise with itself, with its warlords and the richer, more powerful
regional and global powerful. In the post war Liberia, we don’t talk about the
war any more, its brutality, or its destruction. We don’t hear from the old
generation. In fact, we hardly see the old generation. The newspapers are full
of political scandals, stories of bribery and corruption, sensational news of
looting and armed robberies, football, and photo opportunities of some NGO or
UN agency inaugurating a latrine or donation of vehicles to the Police. The public service billboards in the country almost infantise the populace: wash your hands, don't rape, report corruption, etc. They are dotted with logos of donors and 'implementing partners.' There
is sense of betrayal of course everywhere: of how deprived Liberians still are
and what a deep sense of mistrust the Liberian has with his or her government.
There is a sense that the powerful and rich are just “eating money.” It is
difficult to find deep and honest political commentary that is well-written in
newspapers and editorial columns. And even if you manage to find some, it is
lone and without further debate. There is definitely an intellectual vacuum in
Liberia.
During
the answer and question session, someone from the University bemoaned the lack
of research in the departments. Patricia agreed and said even basic curriculum
needed to be revised.
How
will an intellectual and artistic
revival will take place in Liberia?
Will there ever be a Museum in Liberia which pays homage to the victims of Liberia's civil war?
Will there ever be a Museum in Liberia which pays homage to the victims of Liberia's civil war?
This is a lovely post. Yah lookin' fahn oh! ;-)
ReplyDeleteWow! This is a really interesting article, analytical, powerful, and informative. I love how you talked about the reading with a backdrop of historyour. Thsnks you, Farzana.
ReplyDeleteWow! This is a really interesting article, analytical, powerful, and informative. I love how you talked about the reading with a backdrop of historyour. Thsnks you, Farzana.
ReplyDeleteA great post! This post is a beautiful description of all that is Liberia with her qualities, her faults and her history. You obviously have enfolded Liberia into your heart and have many truths to tell from the perspective of one who sees clearly and loves dearly.
ReplyDeleteHmm. Come back to Liberia if she was paid a proper salary? Right.
ReplyDelete