A wonderful visit to Malaysia

I've always wanted to visit Malaysia for its status as an Asian Tiger; for the political legendary status of Dr Mahathir who has helped to build a strong Malaysian economy and state; and, to see a developed East Asian Muslim country. 

My best friend has been living in Kuala Lumpur for the past 4 years. I finally had the opportunity to visit her and, to see beautiful Malaysia. 

First impressions

The journey itself to Malaysia was exciting. I have never traveled to East Asia and, even transiting through Bangkok Airport was a novelty for me. 

I was impressed with the beautiful airport in Kuala Lumpur. We exited into the duty free which had massive windows looking into trees. We took a train to another terminal from where we passed through immigration and baggage halls.

My best friend and her four year old (Aysha and Aleeza) picked up Kavita and I. What a nice feeling to be picked up. What a nice feeling to see a smiling face in the arrivals!

Kuala Lumpur is so green. It's a tropical city with green belts of rain forest in the middle of highways. The climate is tropical, similar to Liberia. I was constantly struck by how similar the weather and terrain were, especially while we traveled through the country.

Multi-cultural feast

I was completely taken aback by how multi-cultural KL is. While exploring the old parts of town, one would come across a Hindu Temple, a mosque, and a Buddhist Temple within the same vicinity if not the same street.

Coming from Pakistan, where religion and the imposition of Islam is a stifling reality, it can render one a little over excited. 

Similarly, in terms of cuisine, one can relish food from at least 3 different cultures. Aysha introduced me to lasi lemak on my first day itself in a mall. I absolutely loved it. We ate at a "pure veg" South Indian restaurant on the day we went to explore the sights in and around Merdeka Square. The restaurant was opposite a sari shop called the Chennai Potty's. We also often ate at an open air restaurant (Aysha says the name is 'Nagas') which had delicious cheap fare. One could serve one self up from a buffet and order from the menu too. That's where I first had the crazy delicious roti canai and teh tarik. Being a tea lover, I quite obsessed with teh tarik and realised later that what makes it so tasty, among other things, is that they add condensed milk to it. Aysha's daughter was obsessed with cheese parathas and noodles so we got to try those as well. Kavita loved the roti canai, too. A few times, Aysha picked up Pakistani dishes from Pakistani restaurants for iftar as we were visiting during Ramzan. We also ate in China Town in the Petaling Night Market in a square where people were in the tables in the middle surrounded by different restaurants. The food was fantastic and I forget all Aysha ordered and introduced us to. In Penang we ate at one of the best places to have nasi kandar at Line Clear Nasi Kandar after a full day of sight seeing. That was quite an amazing experience. Another dish I went crazy over was curry laksa. We had it on Jonkers Street in Malacca. I was stunned by how fragrant and delicious it was. 

I visited so many temples, Hindu and Chinese, during this trip. There are also many stunning mosques in the country but how much can one see in one trip? Also, I was more eager to see temples as I have never really visited a temple in Asia. 

I did spend one afternoon in awe at the Islamic Arts Museum and, it is truly stunning. 

Because of Ramadan , malls were decorated to signal the fasting month. But ordinary life did not seem to be affected by Ramadan and, certainly, food/drink was clearly available even during fasting hours (unlike Pakistan). We saw a Ramadan Bazaar in George Town where Aysha stopped to pick up something to break her fast (and for the 2 elder men driving our human rickshaws). 

I enjoyed every sensation, sight, food and feeling of being in Malaysia. 

I didn't try the famed durian though - its reputation kept me away. Nevertheless I did find this amazing quote about durian: 

“The stories surrounding eating durians remind us that literature should incorporate low culture bringing it closer to lived reality. These legends come not from the pens of the elite but are assembled from the words of the masses both written and spoken passed from one person to another—the only way to create a text this deep and compelling.” ― Wong Yoon Wah Durians Are Not the Only Fruit

The British made a George Town everywhere they went? 

I have visited George Town in Accra and now have the pleasure of spending 2 nights in George Town, Penang. These British conquerors (disguised as traders) subjugated peoples and lands and resources in the name of their kings and queens: George , James, Victoria, etc. 

Shiny, Glamorous and Packaged 

Malaysia belongs to the group of countries that has achieved economic miracles within a lifetime thanks to the visions of a singular personality (Lee Kuan Yew and Singapore, Sheikh Zayed? and Dubai). In my mind, I have associated Malaysia's modern success story to Dr Mahathir. 

For sure, Malaysia as seen by a visitor is a glittering success: a gleaming beautiful capital city with glitzy malls, abundant consumerism, such a well-developed tourism industry, cultural harmony, law and order, world-class museums, and stunning airports. 

From my limited understanding, Malaysia has enjoyed political stability and, during my visit history was being made after the ruling party was ousted by a coalition and, Mahathir became Prime Minister again (the oldest one) , by joining with his own formerly ousted/imprisoned Anwar Ibrahim. The outgoing Prime Minister was the centre of shocking corruption scandal and, gazillion luxury items and cash was found in his home. 

However, the economic development has  obviously come at a cost. We have this idea forced upon us that democracy is vital to economic development and prosperity but of course this isn't true. The West didn't develop thanks to democratic and liberal ideals. Moreover, the development that former colonies and some non-Western states have achieved has taken place over a much faster time space.    

Economic miracles rarely are peoples' development, equal, sustainable and, democratic. 

So, we have understand that Dr Mahathir and his party ruled dictatorially and, critics were 'dealt' with. Also, I understood that the cultural harmony isn't as perfect as it may seem. The Malay ethnic group is favoured institutionally , over Indian and Chinese ethnicities. As such society is stratified. Islam is the religion of the country although it is also secular. Moreover, Malay Muslim identity is defined very specifically by the state. Homosexuality is a crime. 

Also, as shiny and glitzy as the country might seem, one can definitely get there is inequality and very poor sections of society. 

Meeting Anwar Ibrahim and Sashi Taroor

What can I say, this moment was something so wonderful and exciting. Aysha's journalist friend was up to interview newly-released Anwar Ibrahim and, she was so kind to take us along. We went to the Party HQ and, media teams were in queue to interview Anwar. We were sitting in the lobby when I saw Shashi Taroor and I kind of leapt up to go see him. Then I realised Anwar was seeing him off at the door. And, I didn't know who to greet first. I said hello to Sashi and, he asked me "Aap ka shub naam." I will never forget that. Aysha's friend's turn came up and , we all watched as she interviewed him. He was quite tired and, sometimes nodding right where he was in between takes. He was also perspiring and was fasting. He joked with us afterwards and, even hummed some Bollywood tunes, I forget which. It was such a memorable day. 

Beauty

Malaysia is a tropical country and, has rich wildlife, beaches, national parks, and tropical lushness. After spending so many years in Liberia, which has the world's wettest capital, I could definitely recognise and be familiar with the lushness, the rain, humidity and rainfall. 

Liberia is equally stunning and beautiful however, it is not developed. It doesn't have any modern infrastructure, transportation, well-maintained national parks or beaches, no tourism industry to speak of, and, definitely no reputable museum that celebrates its heritage where one could get lost for a day. In fact, it is even difficult to find a beautiful garden in Monrovia, the capital, to enjoy the tropical lushness. 

Seeing Malaysia, I imagined what Liberia could be like if it were developed and taken care of, its natural beauty truly enjoyed and presented and, a country where its rainfall and dense forestation is overcome to build roads to connect the country.