Fashion Show in Monrovia

We all like to try out new experiences; however, unfortunately, it does not work out all the time. I decided to attend a fashion show right here in Monrovia even though these kind of events never appeal to me. But I thought, "let's try it, what the heck." What's more I purchased 2 VIP tickets (for $ 50/head) and even a general seating one for one of my staff members. 

Haresh and I excitedly got dressed for the show. We both wore traditional South Asian suits and felt great. Haresh even wore his Sindhi cap! I wore my new suit which is made out of a silk sari.

The show started 3 hours late and hardly any tickets were sold. As you can see in the pictures below, more than half the seats are empty and most of the people sitting on those chairs look like the staff of hotel where it was hosted (Golden Gate, near the SKD complex). We ended up spending more bucks at the restaurant on drinks and snacks out of boredom. 

The show was really lousy. The microphones were not working. The music was bad. There were a couple of musicians who lip synced to their own really lousy songs. It was really b-a-d and amateurish. There was a stand up comedian and about half of his jokes were funny. The host of the show was quite entertaining and I guess made up for the disastrous event. 

It was a lousy event simply because it started so late, was anti-climatic and really boring. There was a general air of frustration. I could not believe I had dished out $ 100 and had been so excited about attending it.

The fashion show itself show cased 2-3 designers and some of the clothes were quite eye-catching but none of it was mind-blowing. The make up was kind of cool. 

There were some gorgeous models and I must add that they really knew how to strut, pout and work the stuff.

The main designer was Fanta Marazetti, a model turned designer, who definitely seems like a promising designer. Unfortunately, this show was a disaster. 

Apparently, there was a really amazing fashion show held in Monrovia last year. Therefore, I guess I was unlucky. 

I still look forward to more social events in the city and hope each one will be better than the last. 

Most of the guests there seemed to really enjoy the show, and I am guessing most of them are the Liberian 'returnees' from the diaspora. For them, this must be very encouraging and exciting. It's only 'foreigners' like me who must be sulking and comparing these events to those back home for their lack of organisation. 

I did enjoy taking pics and tweaking them afterwards. Here they are:

I think this is the only fountain in Monrovia?

Taken by a "professional" photographer who had come to cover the event

It looks like Haresh is pouting, too.

Help NATC Save a Life

Dear friends and community members,

NATC has sponsored the medical treatment of a young Liberian woman, Naomi Zeinabu Meh, by sending her to India. The girl was suffering from acute pain and given the pure lack of medical care in country, it was not clear what was wrong with her. She even had a leg amputated unnecessarily by doctors at Firestone Hospital. We knew Naomi as an employee of NLTC (NATC's predecessor) and seeing her awful condition decided to send her to India for diagnosis so at least to figure out what was wrong with her. Did she have cancer? Did she need to have her leg amputated? Why was she coughing constantly? 

So we sent her to India and she's been there since about October. The doctors diagnosed her and found her to be suffering from jaundice, TB and a tumour in her pelvic region. Yes, indeed, she does have cancer. It explained the enormous amount of suffering she's been going through. Also, the amputation of the leg was completely unnecessary. The doctors focused on first curing her jaundice and TB - she's been coughing blood and it took time before she was stabilised. The doctors still see her unfit for surgery and would like to her to be fully cured and stable before they consider surgery.

We often communicate with her and see her the pictures she's posted on Facebook. She's doing well and looks much healthier. She's regained some weight and doesn't look like a skeleton anymore. But she needs rest and we are planning on calling her back to Liberia as soon as we pay off her hospital bills.

The purpose of the trip was to have her diagnosed and possibly go for surgery. Naomi ended up staying much longer than we had anticipated and, so far, only her TB and jaundice have been taken care of. The hospital bills mounted and we really exceeded our budget. 

We are in the process of trying to pay her outstanding bills of $ 4,000+ and calling her back to Liberia. She has a return ticket. We want her to come back, spend time with her daughter and recover completely from the TB and jaundice. After that, we will figure out when/how to fund her surgery. We will also know more once she is discharged and the hospital issues a full report. 

NATC has spent around $ 10,000 already in getting her a passport; Indian visa fees from Abidjan; ticket costs; hospital fees; and other miscellaneous costs. It's a significant amount for a mid-size company like ours.

We also sought assistance and contributions by posting on the Liberia Expats Google Group (Liberia Expats <liberia-expats@googlegroups.com>) and spreading the message to some of our friends. We got around $ 1,000.00 contribution from our close friends (a huge thanks to them for standing by our side) and through a friend who is an American philanthropist, a contribution by a member of the Rotary Club in India of $ 2,000.00. 

We need $ 4,000+ to get her discharged. I am extending a request for any amount of contribution! NATC has just moved into a new office and we are quite overwhelmed with expenses. Your contribution will help us and gives you a chance to participate in a good cause. Also, if you know of anyone who would like to help, please help to spread this. 

We have also blogged about it at Help NATC Save a Life. This link also includes a doctor's report.  Please share with people you think would be interested in helping us now or in the future when Naomi needs to go through surgery.

I am also attaching a picture of Naomi at the Nanavati Hospital. 

If you want to know how to help, you may give the donation to us in cash or directly transfer to the NATC Account in Monrovia, Liberia or the Nanavati Hospital in Mumbai, India:

1) Nanavati Hospital, India

Bank name: Axis Bank, Santa Cruz West.

Account no: 778010200000019 in favour of Dr. Balabhai Nanavati Hospital.

Swift code: AXISINBB020

IFSC CO: UTIB000778

Make sure that the Patient details (Ms. Naomi Zeinabu Meh) are mentioned in the transfer.

2) New Africa Technology Company

Ecobank Account Number: 004-1024701946001

IB Bank Account Number: 04-00-02532-6

I look forward to hearing from you! 

Harmattan

When I looked out the window this morning, I was struck at how white the sky looked. The whole view was hazy, almost foggy. You'd think this was a white, snowy sky. I could not see anything I can normally see on the horizon, for instance, Ducor Hotel or the new American Embassy. 

What we are seeing is the Harmattan, fine dust traveling down from the Sahara. Apparently, it's so thick that flights have stopped coming into Monrovia. 

I do not really mind it at all because the sun is blocked and it is slightly cooler.

A friend of mine though suffered from a horrendous migraine for about 2 days which he blamed on the Harmattan. He even came out to dinner with us to the newest restaurant in town (Blue House in Congo Town) and suffered through excellent food and a fabulous ambience with the slowest service possible. He was optimistic though, because he said the migraine would go away the next day as the sun was bound to come out. And guess what, the sun did come out that Sunday! I texted him to ask whether he could also predict other weather changes! He said he's working on it. 

Below are some pictures taken from our terrace:

Monrovia: I Love My City, I Hate My City

It has been a week since I got back from my very long trip out of Liberia. I must say I am struggling - like I always do - in settling back into Liberia. I am frustrated with everything: the hot and sticky weather; the general shabbiness and ugliness of Monrovia; the gutters, the putrid smells; the throng of street vendors and especially their goods-laden wheelbarrows; and, how long things take to get done here.

It is pure culture shock! Even when driving back from the airport, one looks around at the thick tropical forest on either sides of the RIA highway, and you say to yourself, yaar ye tau jungle hai, what am I doing here?

That jungle-shock-fever passes and you start coming into Congo Town, one of the furthest edges of Monrovia, and get re-acquainted with the bareness, the shoddiness of Monrovia. I did notice the new Ministry of Health recently renovated by Chinese contractors and it looks good. But it stands out as a lone building. As you come into town and pass Sinkor and finally into the very congested central Monrovia, you are really struck by how shoddy and small Monrovia is.

Sure, Monrovia has seen loads of changes over the past several years. In fact, I should know having first arrived way back in 2003 when it was literally enveloped by darkness, full of refugees, piles of garbage and shelled-out buildings starting out at you from every corner. I often make glowing and enthusiastic remarks at how much change has come about and that we are really moving towards much more. But I guess because the country still has such a long way to go, it is such a culture shock coming from places like Islamabad.

I arrived back at my apartment slash office only to find everything caked in 1-inch dust and half my plants struggling for water. Nothing was as I like it and have instructed to be maintained in a certain way. I was incensed, infuriated and indignant. I wanted to fire everyone. Thankfully, it was the weekend and I couldn't actually fire anyone. But my God, was I pissed off that my staff had let simply ignored my very detailed and explicit instructions on how to maintain my office. I couldn't even enjoy the cup of coffee on the new terrace that Haresh had added to by making a walkway and a wooden floor. I was fuming the whole time, angry that my plants had unnecessarily been starved of precious water.  I found dirt and dust everywhere, wanting to weep and scream at the same time. 

I also forgot to mention that half of the new rattan set that I had specially got made for the terrace was stolen on one of the holidays when both Haresh and I were away and I guess no one was around (although I had asked my staff to check the place by passing by on Sundays and holidays and take turn doing it). The clever thief had actually broken the lock going up to the terrace and apparently no one in the entire building heard the sound. Naturally, I was seething about this as well. 

I did, of course, take my staff to task on Monday morning. The answers I got were really creative: the cat ate all the plants, we just cleaned the place, I don't know or let me blame someone else for it. Then, there was a whole lot of sulking and mumbling. 

So yes, I got really pissed off and did some almost-firing and sulking of my  own. I think I also really miss Joseph Dennis and I feel pangs of nostalgia through out the day. May his soul rest in peace.

I guess I need to find keep working at enforcing rules and getting people to follow instructions. I have noticed that although most of staff come from really humble backgrounds, some of them really think it is below them to do other things requested of them. I found it very strange that none of the staff bothered to wait for me at the office after I returned from the Airport last Saturday. And, the worst is that they'll never admit their mistakes and instead, sulk! I was shocked to see how much attitude and sulkiness I was shown when I pointed out my disappointment at finding a messy office and half my plants in bad shape. There is really no way to change the mentality but I guess I can keep pointing out what I like and dislike and hopefully, this set of young persons working for me will start to follow instructions. 

Work wise, the business has been doing well and for the couple weeks that both Haresh and I were away, the staff handled clients and followed instructions. It was also a slow time and not much was happening. Ultimately, Haresh and I can only afford to be away for about a month at the same time and any more than that impacts the business. 

So, I think I am getting back into it although I do really miss Islamabad. I miss being in a city which is functional and also pleasing to look at. Monrovia offers no respite because it is in a very shabby condition. Sure, things have improved a lot in the last few years and the mayor's office has accomplished a lot to restore order (parking areas, street signs, one-way streets, control of traffic, building of the new bridge going into Bushrod Island), get the city cleaned up (so much so that the first Saturday of the month is set aside exclusively to clean up the town) and to beautify (plants, painting, renovation).

Broad Street

Broad Street

But still, it is always a culture shock to come from any other country and to find oneself in a shabby city that is Monrovia. It also offers no natural beauty and so one longs to see something looking pretty and normal. Monrovia is by the ocean but unfortunately most of the beaches in town are extremely dirty and people have been using them as public toilets! One has to drive out for several kilometers to find a clean beach. So what does that leave us with? There are some hilly bits of Monrovia which are nice such as the top of Broad Street which offer a nice view but really one is hard pressed to find some scenic views.  All in all, I do not think Monrovia is naturally pretty making one starved of beauty. 

The streets during the day time on weekdays are full of street vendors, masses of people, traffic and lots of commotion. I often find myself wanting to throttle the guys who sell those outdated, annoying CDs and play them on an ancient deck, transporting the whole mobile CD shop on a wheelbarrow!

Having said all of the above, I do have a certain relationship with Liberia that forces me to think in positive terms. I am here for the long term and have set myself up for a challenge that I am relishing. I have been in Liberia for almost 10 years, most of it working for the dysfunctional UN system, but only recently switched to the private sector. I am here to establish and grow a premier IT company that will provide services and goods to the new Liberia, which is booming and shows great promise.

I am really glad that I don't belong to the aid crowd with its typical short-term relationship with the country it serves. I am here for long term and have a different vision and stake in this place. When I used to work in a stuffy UN office it would take me ages - at least a month - to get back into Liberia mode or to feel motivated again. Now, my turn around time is a week! There's too much going on in my personal and professional life to feel down or depressed. Where before I was stuck in a job which had such a messed up relationship with the country I was in, I could never be positive about the future. 

It is a completely different ball game now. Having a business has completely changed my outlook and view towards the place I am in. Instead of seeing Liberia as an aid-receiving hopeless case, I now see it as a growing economy with a leadership that has an outward-looking, modern vision. I want to be part of a new, changing Liberia and yes, benefit from it. I want a piece of the cake!

I see potential everywhere. And yes, Liberians can be a pain to work with but I have way much more freedom to train people, to hire people, to fire people and find and mould a team to my liking. And I am sure I am also a pain to work with, too. 

Yay! I have given myself a great pep talk and am re-excited about all the great stuff I am trying to accomplish in Liberia!

Living in the world's most expensive city

There's an article on BBC "Living in the world's most expensive city," which is none other than Luanda, Angola. 

Monrovia is also extremely expensive and it appears that Monrovia is expensive for the very same reasons: aftermath of a prolonged civil conflict, broken down infrastructure resulting high prices for basic commodities and energy, high rents created by an expatriate bubble, and very little local production and necessity to import almost everything. 

The article interviews various expatriates who live and work in Luanda. The comments and observations they made could almost describe the scene in Monrovia: tomatoes are so expensive here you'd think they were made of gold, rents for ordinary apartments in those exclusive compounds where the UN crowd lives are sky high and drive up rents elsewhere, and the quality of the average item or service you buy never matches the price!

However, there is a way to live more economically as some of the more practical residents of Luanda are doing. Likewise, one can find cheaper accommodation in Monrovia - it's not in a compound but in available for example in central Monrovia in the commercial areas, usually above the businesses and shops. The apartments are available unfurnished and have very reasonable rents.  One can buy one's vegetables, fruits and meats outside of the supermarkets and one can save money. Sometimes it is a matter of getting as far away from the supermarket as possible and buy from the market women. I avoid buying meat from the supermarkets but from the butcher.  I have also heard some farms have cropped up and it is cheaper to buy directly from them. 

You'd think that these measures are so basic, so commonsense and why bother even pointing these out! But most expatriates who live in these post-conflict countries which are experiencing a double aid-and-foreign-investment boom can't seem to think normally as they would back home. 

So yes, Monrovia is also extremely expensive but there are ways to save that hard-earned cash and put it to be better use. Of course, one still misses have the variety of options as a consumer, one misses the variety of fresh produce, one misses the quality of service and goods back home but at the same time, life is quite simple in these places. 

Let's hope that we have more competition in Liberia and prices are driven down for basic things. Let's hope we have more options and choices. And let's hope that domestic production also takes off. It'll be nice to see more products made in Liberia on the shelves. 

Greetings from Nairobi Airport

* image from Excess Baggage Charges and How to Avoid Them

Why is my life so full of excess luggage? As far back as I can remember, I seem to be flying from city to city, continent to continent dragging over-the-limit suitcases and hand carry on's bursting at the seams. Why do I always insist on packing a hippo and an elephant?
There are such profound questions and because the answers will be so philosophical and require quite some time and space to fully elaborate the explanations from a socio-political perspective, it is best to just put the questions out there and let them linger as giant question marks over our heads. But I can tell you how much I spent so far on excess luggage! While I was driving to Islamabad Airport at around midnight, I asked the Radio Cab driver whether he had any contacts at the Airport who could help me with my excess luggage which was around 20 kg as I was only allowed 30 KG on the Emirates flight from Islamabad to Dubai. He said the best thing to do was to ask the porters to help me out as they would speak to the officers at the counters and make a deal. So that is exactly what I did! The Radio Cab driver spoke to a couple of them before hand to explain what I wanted. So, while I was in that ridiculous 3-laned queue to actually get into the airport, I explained to him how much I thought I was in excess. Another porter came round and explained that he would try his best to get my things through with spending a minimal amount. He told me he would get it done in half the amount. So, I slipped in 10,000 rupees into my passport and the job was done. I also paid 3,000 rupees to the porter who arranged the whole deal. I guess I saved a lot of money as I would have had to pay at least double. But it was not over, I also spent quite a bit of dirhams for excess luggage for the Dubai to Monrovia leg on Kenya Airways where my travel allowance was 40 KG. I spent 350 dirhams for 7 kgs excess luggage for the checked-in luggage and guess what, 200 dirhams for 9 kgs excess for carry-on bags! This is a fortune to say the least. The Islamabad to Dubai flight on Emirates was full of screaming babies and I hardly got an hour's sleep. I mean you know it that the flight is full of desi's when you have a screeching symphony of bitterly crying and whining babies. Mujhe paida kyun kya??

The Dubai to Nairobi flight was around 4 hours long but because I was so tired, I hardly remember much of it. Both airports were a modern Internet-user's disappointment as the wi-fi was not working at either! At least I would be able to send e-mails. I think this e-mail will stay in my Outbox until I reach my apartment in Monrovia. I only have a 3 hour-stop in Nairobi and am probably going to spend it sipping coffee at the Java House cafe until they announce boarding. I would love to look around duty free and buy some Kenyan souvenir but my hand luggage is too heavy to drag around and they do not have those trolleys like they do at Dubai Airport. It's an almost 9-hour journey from Nairobi to Monrovia including the 1-hour stop in Accra. Fortunately, I will spend that stop over in the plane. Will call from Monrovia once I get there on Saturday at 3 PM. It will be 8 PM in Pakistan and Saira will be glued to the TV watching the latest Humsafar episode which I shall try to watch on YouTube on Sunday if the Internet speed permits it.

28.01.2012 - Nairobi Airport

A cubist nude woman and horse and a Mughal miniature

I will always fondly remember today as I purchased my very own first Pakistani art. After going back and forth to the Nomad Art Gallery (I must have made at least 5 trips), rummaging through paintings, researching artists on the Internet, and talking to the various gallery staff, I finally made my selection today! 

I purchased a Mashkoor Raza mid-size painting and a Mughal miniature by N.H. Kazmi. 

The Mashkoor Raza, an artist from Lahore, is a very atmospheric cubist piece with a nude woman and a horse. It's part of a series of  "over 35 oil paintings featuring fuming horses and semi nude women were put on display, giving an impression of ‘power and beauty'" (Check out this article Mashkoor Raza Encloses Cubism at Nomad Gallery Islamabad).

And here it is:

Ain't she a beauty?

There was a similar one to this and it was in red hues but I am glad I got the blue one. 

The other painting is a Mughal miniature by N.H. Kazmi who is a prominent artist and famous for his Mughal miniatures. It was a bit of an impulsive purchase and to be honest, there is nothing particularly mind blowing about it, but I guess I got it for the heck of it. There was a painting, not a miniature, by the same artist which featured two veiled women and for me, that was more interesting. But it was as expensive as the first one and I wanted to spend the bigger part of my budget on the Mashkoor Raza. 

Below is a picture of the miniature:

I am really happy with my first foray into Pakistani art and, now plan on collecting pieces each time I visit Pakistan instead of blowing so much money on clothes! There were lots of other amazing pieces in the gallery. I am mainly more interested in the more modern expressions rather than Mughal miniatures and calligraphy, not that it is not beautiful, but I would rather explore something else. 

So, thanks to my brother for suggesting I invest in Pakistani art. I sent him a teasing text message today where I said I was really more Pakistani than him as I not only still had a Pakistani passport (he's got a British one in addition to his Pakistani one) but also owned 2 Pakistani paintings. He's probably going to get really annoyed because we have this really anal argument as to who is more Pakistani between us.

I love my city, I love Islamabad

I have been in Islamabad since 17 December and have thoroughly enjoyed being back in this beautiful city in the winter. Living in tropical Liberia, where one experiences two seasons - a really dry one and a really wet one - it is nice to experience a different climate, especially such a deliciously cold one. There are wintry colours everywhere: yellow grass, dried out golden leaves, seasonal flowers in bloom and the streaming winter sun.

And then there are the pine-tree-lined beautiful roads and highways, the Margalla Hills in the background, the beautiful elitist homes with armed security guards, the manicured gardens, and this snobby quietness that is so special to Islamabad.

I have been gushing about the beauty of Islamabad to everyone and to myself. Well sure, some of this wide-eye wonder comes from the fact I live in a very shabby, war-affected, run-down capital of West Africa and yes, I am relishing being in a city that is not only functions but looks great, too, and is so clean. I literally drink in the beauty. I just love Islamabad.

But most of this appreciation really stands on its own. Islamabad is a beautiful city.

So, what are some of my favourite places and things to do in Islamabad? Here they are in no particular order:

1) Getting my favourite cake (almond syrup) from United Bakery in F-6. Like with most favourites, they are usually rooted in one's comforting childhood memories and so it is with the United Bakery almond syrup cake which we have been enjoying every since we were kids.

They keep changing the decor, though, and it's different each time we go there in the last few years. I guess they are trying out a new style but with the space they have, they need to better utilise it.

This time around they have put the counters in the middle and along the sides with loads of space in between. They really need to get an interior decorator to re-do the space that doesn't need to be too fancy but simple, cozy and inviting. They could even start serving tea and coffee and put a coffee bar by the front window with some bar stools and it could be really hip.

2) Shopping at Generation for funky, cool shalwar kameez -es. This has got to be a topper for me. Ami always has beautifully stitched clothes (from the tailor) ready for me each time I visit but still, shopping at Generation is amazing. I love browsing their funky collection, they way they mix materials, the bold colours and their twist on the versatile shalwar kameez.

When I used to actually live and work in Islamabad, I used to only wear Generation clothes. Sure, loads of other ready-made stores are out there, but I usually only buy at Generation because they are edgy, funky and cool. I prefer their clothes over all the other too-girly-for-my-taste clothes other shops have on offer.

I must admit though I do also shop at Khaadi for ready-made clothes, they have some pretty funky clothes too.

Generation does have its down's though. They only accept cash! It is so irritating! So, if you want to buy loads of clothes in one go, you need to have a lot of cash ready.

The other down is the pushy women who shop there! Sheeeesh, they are rude. Everyone kept pushing into each other and did not even bother apologising. I was really amused and shocked at the same time. And then they give such bitchy stares.

3) Going to the tailor's to pick up newly-stitched jora's. This particular tailor has been stitching our clothes for a decade now and it's always nice to catch up with him whenever I am in town. Ami had got a few jora's already made for me and I also got a few more made. All in all, yes, I went crazy on the clothes shopping. I guess one cannot help it - spending money on clothes.

4) Getting hot, frothy and sweet 45-rupee coffee and 10-rupee spicy potato fries from the road stalls in Jinnah Super Market while window shopping.

5) Buying truck loads of pirated DVDs and CDs from Illusions in Jinnah Super Market in F-7 A single DVD costs 100 rupees and you can get all the movies, all the genres, all the albums your heart so desires.

What's more, they make freakingly awesome compilation CDs in Pakistan.

Moreover, each CD store has their own Top 10 compilation. So Illusions has their own. Radio City in Super Market in F-6 has their own.

6) Evening walks in my neighbourhood. I have a particular route that takes about 40 minutes to do. There is a mix of really unkempt, what-the-.... houses and really posh ones. There's also the 'green belts' and the jacaranda trees which are in bloom in springtime.

This time, I enjoyed the winter colours and the drizzling rain.

7) Eating a club sandwich everywhere we go. People inherit all kinds of stuff from their parents. We have inherited the love of the club sandwich! And boy, did I eat a lot of club sandwiches and they really know how to make them in Pakistan. They have perfected it.

So these are some of my favourite things about Islamabad. I realised this time around that sure, the city is snooty and dull compared to the other bigger and older cities of Pakistan but this city is blessed with natural beauty. So yes, if you want to have natural beauty around you but loads of snootiness, this is the city to come to!

So what's new? Or what's something new in good old Isloo?

Café's

I have also been amazed at how much this city has changed since the last time I was here. There has been an explosion of café's and it's been a delight to go to try out various ones. There's a café concentration in Khausar Market and all are pretty cool. There's even a few next to us in F-11 Markaz: Masoom's and Rock Bottom. My favourite one, though, is Chai Khana in F-6. It is cozy, even has a fireplace, comfy sofas, and just fantastic chai!

 

 These café's are really welcome because they offer one a place to meet friends and chill out instead of the usual restaurant.

Art Galleries

I have visited Khaas Gallery and Nomad Gallery with my brother initially. Khaas is small and quite stylish as it has a really nice cafe inside it. When we went, they had an exhibition of art by art graduates i.e. it was by budding artists. Half of the work was a bit boring and dare I say, amateurish, but some of it was quite bold. My favourite pieces were two portraits: Zia and Bhutto, two very important figures in Pakistani history. But they were already sold.

When we visited Nomad Gallery, there was an ongoing press event for an exhibition by Samina Ali. The paintings were mixed media and inspired by Lahore's Mughal History. We browsed through the gallery and learned it was the oldest gallery in Islamabad and had a lot of paintings and pieces to browse through. There was also a lot of 'truck art' to look at it, which was really very original and funky.

My brother convinced me to start looking into buying a Pakistani painting and I have been going to and fro, researching artists online and trying to find one I really love.

I also attended a really great concert at Khuch Khaas: a fusion of sufi music and jazz. The space was very intimate and the atmosphere was quite relaxed. The crowd was more or less into it and appreciated the amazing fusion of jazz, sufi music and subcontinental instruments. The first song was actually "Nature Boy" and to hear it being performed by this Haitian-French singer Cae and Arieb Azhar was amazing. All the songs were amazing and I was amazed at how they fused the two traditions together and actually pulled it off. I sooooo enjoyed the music and know that afters years of listening to jazz (whatever I could get my hands on, I don't claim to be an expert), I could really appreciate what was being done. I loved Arieb Azhar's voice, I loved Cae's jazz and enthusiasm, I loved the flutist, the classical guitar, the young kid on the guitar and of course the tabla player. Everyone had a really good rapport with each other.

Making New Friends While Buying Halwa Puri on A Sunday

When Haresh was here briefly, we went for an early-morning walk in the beautiful F-9 Park and stopped to get halwa puri on the way back. Haresh befriended a really nice gentleman because he figured out he's Sindhi. And that was the start of a beautiful friendship so much so that we made friends with the entire family. Sweet!

Afterthought

So yes, I have had a great time in Islamabad thusfar and it has really made me appreciate my home town. Yes, it's snooty, yes, it's not the real Pakistan, but it is beautiful. I like the place for what it is and let's not forget, I have lived and worked here for almost 2 years, so I know it's actually a really nice city to live in, too.

I also realise that to really appreciate, you have to see it for what it is and stop comparing it to other places you know. One has to make the most of the place you're in.

Finally, why have Pakistanis become so Allahhafizi??? I remember when everyone used to say khudahafiz (goodbye) and it sounded so nice. Now suddenly, everyone's saying Allahhafiz. I really prefer khudahafiz.

My new favourite place

Since the landlord has put in a new roof on the terrace I have been hatching a plan to make a rooftop garden and sitting area. I've come far enough to take a few pictures of what I have done so far. 

The rattan chairs and the table are new and so was the foam for the cushions. But the covers are recycled old curtains, table clothes, bed covers. I asked the tailor to do a patchwork job and look how colorful and funky it came out! I am so delighted! I am so glad I don't like to throw things away. 

Some of the plants are old and were given a new lease of life by the gardener. And some plants are completely new. I made an enclosure using the pots and so far it looks good. 

This is just the basic outlay and after I am done with it, it's going to be really something. I am planning on splashing a bit of terracotta-coloured paint around this corner. I will have another row of plants to make it a more lush-looking rooftop garden. Some creeping plants will hopefully go around the four pillars. 

I'm so delighted with this space. I foresee many many balmy and romantic nights on the roof, with lots of candles, sipping tea or red wine, and listening to some divine music. Right now I can hear the Ali Farka Touré & Toumani Diabaté album in my head.